Alexandru Romanciuc

Alexandru Romanciuc

Sunday 29 September 2019

Cook-Weart Traverse

                                             Cook-Weart Traverse- September 14th 2013

Another beautiful weekend in Wedgemount Lake area as overnight.

On our first day up there we decided to do the classic traverse of the two peaks and we decided to do it from Mount Cook side.

We left parking lot pretty early and started our way up towards Wedgemount Lake.

Once we got there found a empty camping spot where we left our bivy's with all our camping stuff and started our way towards Mount Cook.

As always not that fun to go up towards Mount Cook, seems endless.









Pass Mount Cook we started our way following the ridge towards Weart Peak.





In some spots we had to skip some of the towers along the ridge and go around them.





The ridge doesn't go above class 5, mostly it's a sustained class 4 with some class 5 moves along the way.






About half way we saw a goat on the glacier that was just relaxing on the snow and in few minutes the goat was gone, our guess was that he fell in a crevasse.




Closer to the summit of Weart Peak is where the things got a bit more technical and stayed mostly class 5 with exposure.
















Getting down the last tower into the notch just before the summit was pretty hard, probably that was the hardest move of the traverse.






Once we got on the summit we didn't stayed too much time since it was already pretty late and we started our way back to the hut where our gear was waiting for us.







Here is a video of the traverse:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNZh0Pte_M4



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